St Martin’s paradox: As uncertainty shrouds lives and livelihoods, nature thrives

On the secluded shores of St Martin’s Island, Bangladesh’s only coral island, a curious dichotomy is unfolding away from the prying eyes of the mainland.

Tourists have vanished due to restrictions imposed by the environment ministry, while fishermen remain grounded under a fishing ban enforced by the Department of Fisheries and Livestock.

Caught between these two bans, the residents of St Martin’s are grappling with “extreme hardship”. Among the island’s 10,000 residents, around 70 percent have become dependent on tourism over the past two and a half decades. The rest -- some 1,600 families -- rely solely on the sea for their livelihood.

Deprived of their lifeblood, the islanders are facing hard times, but nature on the island appears to be flourishing. With no outsiders, no noise, and no pollution, the island seems to have reverted to its pristine beauty -- as if nature is healing in solitude.

For islanders, though, the question lingers: why so much secrecy and restriction around the island while people are being pushed into extreme distress?

Some of that concern is reflected in the voice of Nurul Alam, president of the St Martin's Union unit of the BNP.

“The island is gripped by fear, anxiety, and uncertainty. Everywhere from tea stalls, markets, neighborhoods, mosques, people are asking what is going to happen to St Martin's? What’s the island’s future? There’s an inexplicable fear in everyone’s mind -- what machination is unfolding? In the end, will we lose our ancestral land? Only Allah knows.”

When asked about this, Teknaf Upazila Executive Officer (UNO) Sheikh Ahsan Uddin said: “There are no restrictions on local residents’ movement. However, personnel of various projects must obtain permission to travel.”

He also said 76,000kg of rice have been sent to the island in recent days to address the emerging food shortage.

“The Ministry of Environment made the decision to restrict tourist travel primarily to conserve and protect the island’s biodiversity,” he added.

LOCALS SENSE SOMETHING'S 'AMISS'

Over the past two and a half decades, the tourism industry on St Martin’s Island has expanded significantly. Many locals have left farming and other professions to join the tourism trade, while some entrepreneurs from outside the island have also invested there.

Due to its geographical and climatic conditions, tourism in St Martin's has never been year-round. Officially, the tourism season usually runs from Oct 1 to Mar 31. In some years, if the weather permits, it extends unofficially until mid-April. In other words, islanders dependent on tourism conduct business for about five to five and a half months a year.

But following the change in government last year, the interim administration made some changes to that timeline. The Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change shortened the tourism season and imposed new restrictions.

In a sudden announcement in November, the ministry banned overnight stays on the island. In December and January, a limited number, up to 2,000 tourists a day, were allowed to stay overnight. Then, in February, a fresh directive from the ministry banned all tourist travel to the island for nine months, starting Feb 1.

At the same time, the Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock issued a 58-day fishing ban, from Apr 15 to Jun 11, to allow for sustainable breeding, conservation, and production of marine fish.

Caught in the grip of these dual bans, residents of St Martin's say their hardship has only intensified.

After the tourism ban, residents came to Cox’s Bazar and staged a road blockade in protest, voicing their plight.

Meanwhile, various rumours and politically charged speculation about St Martin’s future have circulated on social media, further deepening anxiety among locals.

However, Zamir Uddin, director of the Department of Environment in Cox’s Bazar, downplayed these concerns.

“The idea that residents will be relocated or the island handed over to someone else is just a rumour. The government wants to protect St Martin's as an eco-friendly island.

“There is still limited scope for tourist travel, as long as it doesn’t harm the environment.”

Still, former union council member and incumbent market committee chief Habibur Rahman described the government’s handling of the situation as “mysterious”.

“Even though St Martin's is part of Bangladesh, the government's behaviour toward the island and its people seems suspicious. Without any clear justification, decisions are being made that effectively deprive more than 10,000 residents of their basic rights such as food, education, and healthcare,” he said.

Describing the present conditions, Habibur added: “The island is facing extreme food shortages. First, the government abruptly shut down tourist access during the peak season, citing environmental concerns. Now, a 58-day fishing ban is in effect.

“As a result, the islanders are in serious trouble. There are no doctors in the hospital. Many residents have left for Teknaf and Cox’s Bazar in search of work.”

Island resident Noor Mohammad echoed the same concern, with a note of frustration.

“Because of the government’s decisions, tourism-dependent locals are starving. If this continues, we’re headed for a full-scale famine,” he said.

“There are projects underway for sterilising, feeding, and treating stray dogs on the island, but no one seems accountable when it comes to feeding starving humans.”

SWITCH FROM FARMING STOKES REGRET

St Martin's Island is mainly accessed from mainland Teknaf, although tourists also arrive from Cox’s Bazar or Chattogram. While local residents can move freely, outsiders now require administrative permission to enter the island.

Conversations with several local tourism entrepreneurs last week shed light on the current situation.

With frustration, they shared that the island has over 250 hotels, resorts, and restaurants. Previously, they would do business for five months and survive through the remaining seven without income, which was already difficult. But now, with only two months of operational time, staying afloat in the tourism business has become nearly impossible. They said the government must reconsider the restrictions.

Most hotels and cottages now sit shuttered, thousands of workers are jobless, and the once-bustling local markets are bereft of customers and business.

Maulvi Abdur Rahman had left farming to try his luck in the burgeoning tourism industry, selling his farmland and taking out bank loans to invest. Over the years, he built up a stable business. Banking on its income, he enrolled both his daughters in private medical colleges, dreaming of a bright future.

Now, he wonders if that decision was a mistake.

“My daughters’ dream of becoming doctors is turning into a nightmare,” said Abdur Rahman. “If this continues, I won’t be able to afford their education.”

“If the government wants to impose environmental regulations, we are willing to comply. But why shut down tourism altogether? We are citizens of this country. You can’t just take away our livelihoods.”

Many others on the island are facing the same fate.

A political leader from St Martin's Union said, “Once, people here made a living through fishing and farming. After 2000, when tourists began coming in, it opened new income opportunities for the locals. Now, the majority of residents depend heavily on tourism. If that stops, it’ll bring disaster. Where will people go then?”

'FISHING BAN WORSENS PLIGHT'

St Martin's Island is home to around 2,100 families, a portion of whom have been fishermen for generations. Fishing in the sea is their sole means of livelihood. Often, they must brave the dangers of the open waters simply to survive.

During the fishing ban, each registered fisherman is supposed to receive 78kg of rice from the government. However, many fishermen complain that not everyone receives this aid. And rice alone is not enough as they need other essentials to survive.

Abdul Gani, a fisherman from the island’s western coast, said last week: “Fishermen in St Martin's are not doing well. Our families survive by fishing in the sea. But with the ban in place, we’re extremely worried about how to support our families. I have a wife and five children. How long can I keep borrowing to survive? You’re a journalist. can you please tell the government? We’re starving to death. Doesn’t the government hear the cries of St Martin’s people?”“My mother is sick at home. One of my two daughters has had a fever for days. I can’t afford a doctor,” he added.

Acting Chairman of Saint Martin Union Parishad Fayezul Islam said, “A hospital was built on the island considering the needs of both residents and tourists. But despite the building, it lacks essential equipment and has no doctors. So it’s practically useless. The people of St Martin's are deprived of medical care.”

“Every year during the monsoon, when the island is cut off from the mainland, people die without treatment. Just a few days ago, two children died due to lack of medical care. There is an urgent need to provide a sea truck and sea ambulance for Saint Martin,” he added.

NATURE'S ENCHANTING REVIVAL

According to the Department of Environment, St Martin’s Island is one of Bangladesh’s 13 Ecologically Critical Areas (ECAs). To protect its environment and biodiversity, the department does not issue permits for new construction on the island. Transporting construction materials from Teknaf to St Martin's is strictly prohibited. Even for government work, prior approval from the Upazila administration is required.

However, local environmental activists allege that some rogue and influential groups smuggle in construction materials under the cover of night. Over the past three years, more than 150 multi-storey buildings have been constructed on the island.

Unregulated construction and violation of environmental guidelines have severely threatened the island’s ecosystem. Although the island was once home to over a thousand species of flora and fauna, much of that biodiversity is now endangered. Green cover has dwindled, and coral populations have also declined.

It has now been four months since tourism was halted on Saint Martin. In this short span, a remarkable transformation has taken place in its natural environment, particularly in Chheradia Island, a popular destination for tourists visiting St Martin's.

Locals say Chheradia is composed of three areas, Chheradia, Nijhum, and Prabal. Today, the island is bathed in stunning natural beauty. During high tide, rocks are submerged under crystal-clear waters, where colourful fish can be seen darting around the coral. Birds are also spotted more frequently. When the tide recedes, Chheradia takes on an entirely new form.

The beaches are now free of plastic and polythene. Everything is clean and pristine. New keora trees are sprouting on Chheradia, Nijhum, and Prabal islands. As biodiversity slowly returns, new plant life is even beginning to grow on the coral rocks. The entire area is now free of human footprints and noise—just the serene rhythm of nature reclaiming its space.

EXPLORING ALTERNATIVE LIVELIHOODS

The government has announced plans to create alternative livelihood opportunities for the distressed residents of St Martin’s Island. A working team has been formed, headed by the director general of the Department of Environment.

The team includes representatives from the Ministry of Agriculture, Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock, Bangladesh Tourism Board, Ministry of Women and Children Affairs, Forest Department, district administration, and NGOs like BRAC and Coast Foundation.

In early May this year, representatives from BRAC and Coast Foundation visited the island to assess biodiversity protection, environmental sustainability, and the feasibility of alternative employment options.

Jahangir Alam, assistant director of Coast Foundation, said: “We found that more than 70 percent of the island’s population is involved in tourism, and they are all currently unemployed. Additionally, there are over 1,600 fishing families who are also in dire straits. So, the issue of alternative employment has become urgent.”

Zamir Uddin, director of the Department of Environment in Cox’s Bazar, added: “To compensate the residents, the government is planning to engage them in various professions. Alternative employment is a key part of this initiative.”

These include promoting chemical-free dried fish production, appointing new teachers at local schools, and establishing an SSC exam centre. Other ideas under consideration are the use of eco-friendly fishing gear and technology, cultivating vegetables and mushrooms, and expanding poultry and livestock farming.

For women, training in sewing, traditional embroidered quilt (nakshi kantha) making, and souvenir production is being explored, along with producing rope from coconut husk. Additionally, plans are underway to offer training in photography, restaurant work, and tour guiding, especially for young people. Improving the living standards of fishermen is also a key goal.

Cox’s Bazar Deputy Commissioner Md Salahuddin said the government is fully aware of the need for alternative income sources for St Martin's residents. Proposals for several projects have been submitted and will be implemented soon.

“Restoring the island’s natural environment and protecting its biodiversity is everyone’s responsibility. Those affected will receive government support accordingly,” he said.

[Writing in English by Turaj Ahmad]